Tools of the Trade
This lesson will outline the different equipment you will need to be familiar with prior to starting your apprenticeship. It will also go over any professional designations you may require over the course of a carpenter's career.
What should you bring on your first day?
Starting a new trade can be difficult, but being prepared with the right equipment allows for success from the beginning. ​Here are some of the General Carpenter essentials each new apprentice should have:
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Hard Hat
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Safety Glasses
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Safety Boots
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Tool Pouch
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Tape Measurer
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Pencil
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Speed Square​
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Hammer & Catspaw​
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Utility Knife
Let's get familiar...
While some tools tend to be more self-explanatory, some can be difficult to use and potentially dangerous if used incorrectly. This module will go over how to use tools safely and effectively during your apprenticeship and the rest of your career as a General Carpenter.
Speed Square
The speed square is one of the most commonly used tools in a carpenter's arsenal. There are several aspects of the speed square that go beyond the traditional ruler.
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Diamond Hole: This is where you would insert your pencil to draw a line that would need to be on the inner side of what you are cutting. Also, depending on the rotation, you can draw a perfect circle.
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T-Edge: This is the lip overlapping the edge of the speed square and it is used for stabilization. You can use this for a better grip on wood to keep the line straight.
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There are also many other uses for the measurements and notches on the speed square that can drastically streamline the process of measuring, drawing, and cutting. Just look at how they utilize the speed square when operating a circular saw in this video.
Framing Square
Another practical tool for the everyday carpenter is a Framing Square. It can be used for things like calculating angles for stairs and rafters It is broken down into two aspects:
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The Tongue: 1" & 1/2 width, 16" length
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The Blade: 2" width, 24" length
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Watch a quick overview on how to work with a framing square here.
Drills
Probably one of the most common tools among most trades. However, there are a few different drills for every type of job, and as a carpenter, you are going to need to know which one is required for the task...
The traditional drills in construction are broken down by Heavy Duty, which has a spade-shaped/D-shaped handle, and Light Duty, which has a pistol grip handle. Additionally, drill sizes are determined by the size of the chuck, which is just the size of the slot that holds the cutting tool. Some of the more common chuck sizes are 6mm and 9.5mm.
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If you are working with a heavy or light-duty drill, you are going to have many attachments and bits to perform different tasks. Traditionally, when drilling holes through wood, you will use a Twist Drill with spade bits and power bore bits. However, you may find that a more unique bit would suit the job better. These can be bits like Hole Saws where it can carve out a perfect hole anywhere between 16mm to 152mm.
Impact Drills & Drivers
This should be used if you are looking to obtain additional torque with things like long deck screws or carriage bolts into wooden posts, fastening concrete screw anchors into block walls, and driving screws into metal studs. Although similar to a typical drill, you can utilize the additional torque settings for the specific job.
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​Be mindful of the screwdriver bit you are using for the job, as an impact drill differs from a traditional drill. There is a hex shank that locks without the need to tighten.
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Drill Press
What it lacks in portability, it makes up for in precision.​ Essentially this mounted drill is designed to do the work for you, as it drills holes into the material steady, and most importantly, perpendicular to the other holes. It also has depth control to stay consistent with every hole.
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So how do you use one?
Set the Speed
You can adjust the speed by switching drive belts onto different pulleys, with the smaller the pulley the faster the speed.
Fit the Bit
Slide the bit in the chuck and make sure it's snug. Lock it with a key, then remove the key.
Adjust the Table
Set the table to the desired height.
Gauging the Depth
If you are looking to drill up until a certain point, make sure to adjust the depth gauge to the desired depth.
Secure the Material
Ensure the material is braced. This can be done with a clamp. Otherwise, it may spin and cause an injury.
Drilling
Ensure the drill is spinning at max capacity before touching the material. Lower and raise the lever to lower and raise the drill.
Saws
There's a variety of different saws for specific tasks that a carpenter must safely complete. The knowledge of how to operate these saws comes from experience and if you are ever uncertain about how to operate one, make sure you have someone show you. Let's dive into the different types...
Skill Saw
(Circular Saw)
Although simple in its design, ​there are a few elements you must know:
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Handle and power trigger: With a secure grip on the handle, squeeze the trigger to start cutting; with releasing to stop.
Trigger lock switch: Prevents accidental startup of the saw if the trigger is pushed unintentionally.
Front grip: A second handle for more secure handling.
Blade guard: This can be lifted with the tab on the side of the saw, but also can open up automatically depending on the saw.
Bevel & Depth adjustment knob: These can adjust the angle of the blade as well as the depth of the cut.​
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Try watching this video for a quick tutorial on the accurate usage of a skill saw.
Safety
Operation of a Skill Saw or a Circular Saw may seem simple in theory, but can be dangerous and should always be handled with care. Here are some tips to consider while handling:
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Examine your environment, this ensures that you have the appropriate space to operate without debris.
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When not in use, make sure to unplug or remove the battery.
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Reassure that the blade is never on the material intended to be cut when initially starting it.
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Allow the saw to control the pace of the cut.
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Make sure the shoe is steady.
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Shoe: Sometimes called the base of the saw, this is the metal rectangle that rests on top of the material being cut.
Jigsaw
The main usage of this saw is for cutting shapes, curves and other designs. it can be used to cut out openings in, wood, tile and metal.
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To use this saw, first draw a line to provide a path for your cut. Then it is recommended if you aren't starting from the edge of the material, that you drill a hole where you would like to start. Make sure the shoe is flush and you are using the right blade for the smoothest cut.
Reciprocating Saw
(Sawzall / Sabre Saw)
The Reciprocating Saw/ Sabre Saw is used frequently in the construction industry. This saw is not used for finish cuts or accurate straight lines, it is used for demolition and remodelling. This saw can cut through many different types of materials such as wood, metal, plastic, and much more. When cutting the material make sure the right blade is being used.
Table Saw
Excellent for cutting large materials such as drywall. One should always be mindful when using this tool, as it can have drastic repercussions if misused. The table saw is composed of:
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Table
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Fence – A long guide parallel to the blade.
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Fence Dog – This is what locks the fence in place.
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Blade – This interchangeable can cut multiple materials.
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Blade Insert – An insert that fills the gap to secure different blades.
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Blade Height Adjustment Wheel
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Blade Angle Adjustment Lever
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To understand how to operate all these functioning parts safely, please watch this video.
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Miter Saw
Miter saws are used to perform angled cuts for trim work, moulding, rafters and many other different carpentry tasks. Miter saws can only make angled crosscuts, however, sometimes that is not enough and a compound miter saw needs to be used. The difference is that a miter saw can only make mitre cuts but a compound mitre saw can make bevelled and mitre cuts. These compound cuts are needed when cutting crown moulding.
Measuring a miter and bevel cut
How to safely make the cut
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Measure your line and mark it.
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Make sure the board or any other material is flush with the fence and secured. (The bevel cut does not need to be flush with the fence.)
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Loosen the handle on the miter gauge and adjust to the desired angle.
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Once adjusted, tighten the miter gauge.
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Lower handle before starting the saw to ensure it will cut where you need.
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Clamp or brace the material and begin the cut.
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Keep one hand on both the material for steadiness and on the handle for the trigger.
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Allow the blade to reach maximum speed than lower to the material for the cut.
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Let the saw do the work of the cut, if it stops, then you stop.
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Once cut is complete, release trigger.
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Before moving any material, make sure the blade has stopped spinning.
Jack Hammers
With the vast amount of jackhammers out there, it is important to know which one will suit the job. Jackhammers can run by gas, air, or electricity. Snyder has laid out the following models you will likely use over the course of your career as a carpenter.
TE50 Jackhammer
Compact SDS Max (TE-Y) rotary hammer for drilling and chiselling in concrete
Weight according to EPTA-Procedure 01/2003: 13.4 lb.
Single impact energy: 4.4 ft-lbf
Hammer drilling diameter range: 15/32 - 1-9/16 in
Drilling RPM: 360rpm
Full Hammering Frequency: 3510 impacts/min
TE70 Jackhammer
Very powerful SDS Max (TE-Y) rotary hammer for heavy-duty concrete drilling and chiseling, with Active Vibration Reduction (AVR)
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Weight according to EPTA-Procedure 01/2003: 18.3 lb.
Single impact energy: 8.5 ft-lbf
Hammer drilling diameter range: 15/32 - 2-5/32 in
Drilling RPM: 360rpm
Full Hammering Frequency: 2760 impacts/min
TE1000 Jackhammer
Versatile breaker for demolishing or chiseling floors and occasional wall applications (with universal power cord)
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Weight according to EPTA-Procedure 01/2003: 27.6 lb.
Single impact energy: 19.2 ft-lbf
Full Hammering Frequency: 1950 impacts/min
TE2000 Jackhammer
Versatile breaker for demolishing or chiseling floors and occasional wall applications (with universal power cord)
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Weight according to EPTA-Procedure 01/2003: 27.6 lb.
Single impact energy: 19.2 ft-lbf
Full Hammering Frequency: 1950 impacts/min
Nail Guns
Like many of the previously listed tools, there is a variety of different nail guns for each job. These tools can vary in their power source as well. They can be Cordless, Neumatic, Electric, Air, and battery-powered.
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What's the difference?
Framing Nail Guns: This nail gun, like the name states is used when framing. The nailer can use both clipped head nails, and round head nails ranging in size. There are also two different types of nailers: a coil style nailer and a strip style nailer. Each of these options has its own pros and cons, but coil nailers are often used to save time on reloading, and strip nailers are used for their lightweight benefits.
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Trim Nail Guns: Smaller in its size, this nail gun is ideal for holding
mouldings in place without predrilling a hole first. Great for tight spaces and holding smaller things together.
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Pneumatic Stapler: Staple guns are often used in construction for fastening subfloors or roofing materials and are commonly used in furniture making. They can also be used for house wrap and fastening wiring or carpet or certain moulding.
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The nailers listed above are just some of the nailers you will use as a carpenter, listed below are others you will come across:
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Finishing Nailer
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Brad Nailer
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Roofing Nailer
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Pin Nailer
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Palm Nailer
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Sliding Nailer
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Flooring Nailer
Hand & Electric Planes
Planes are one tool that has been in a carpenter's arsenal for ages. The tool is used to remove a small amount of material with each pass, removing the rough material and leaving a clean face behind. It can be used for different applications, but its main purpose is to remove a rough face and to reduce the size of the material. There are many different types of planes, even electric ones.
Listed below are different types of planes that you may encounter in the field.
Bench Planes: The standard plane a carpenter will use.
Fore or Jack plane: This is typically used first when addressing the wood. Its blade ranged from 12" to 20" and is properly used for significantly reducing the stock size.
Jointer: After the jack plane has gotten the depth desired, this plan helps straighten out the surface of the wood.
Smoothing Plane: As it says in the name, it helps smooth over the woodwork done from the previous two planes.
Scrub Planes: A lightweight plane used for smaller material.
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Block Plane: A very versatile plane that is designed to reduce stock and tackle jobs that can't always be brought over to a workbench.
Shoulder Planes: These are designed to cut the recesses between two pieces of layered wood. Known to be flexible, carpenters use this to get a full-width cut as the blade itself has an extended width.
Bull Nose Planes: This gives a better finishing cut to its older brother, the shoulder plane. It is better for finer cuts, and some even have rotating faces for easier corner work. Ultimately it is a smaller, wider, plane.
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Rabbet Planes: Similar to shoulder planes, however, they have sharp spurs for the cutting of wood fibers. This makes it easier for the initial cutting of softer surfaces.
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Plough or Plow Planes: This plane has an attachment that allows for flexible clamps to secure it in place. this can provide a straighter cut, with a more particular groove diameter. These can also come with adjustable blades.
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Router Planes: Mainly used to remove things like unnecessary grooves, curves, and tiny holes in the wood. Its design allows for two cutting positions.
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Is that all?
Over the course of your career, you will be using many new tools.
The most important aspect of all tool use, is how to use the tool safely.
